Warning! Don't even think about repairing a turbocharger at home.
Attention! You can replace a faulty turbocharger with a new one without much difficulty.
Not so long ago there were times when a car with a turbocharger was automatically considered one of the sportiest, most powerful and, of course, most expensive.
A huge distance has been covered over the last 15 years and today it is almost impossible to find a modern engine that does not have a similar unit next to it.
Despite the fact that turbocharger components operate at temperatures up to 800°C and speeds of 50,000–85,000 rpm, they are quite reliable. However, they also wear out and age, and the first turbocharged units (they became truly widespread 5-7 years ago) are already failing, and sometimes this is accompanied by serious consequences.
However, it is not always worth blaming the turbocharger for the fact that the engine suddenly began to lose power. The reason for this could be a banal clamp that has become loose and fallen off the pipeline, or a broken seal.
(The material is based on data from the website MitsubishiMan.ru)
Most often, however, the reason for the decrease in power of the power unit is a faulty turbocharger. It is not worth trying to repair it, but replacing it is quite possible on most common cars.
The most complex are the "charged" sports models, especially those equipped with twin turbochargers. The standard work on their replacement at the dealer in this case is calculated for 12 hours. For models of such complexity, it is recommended not to even think about repairing at home, and many professionals refuse to take it on if they do not have a full set of necessary tools and devices.
However, you shouldn't give in and surrender early. On most models, replacing the turbocharger can be done independently. The main problem will be engine compartments overcrowded with units and limited access to the engine.
Sleight of hand and an S-shaped wrench will help here better than any special tools.
Like any repair job, replacing a turbocharger requires focus and method. Start by clearing access to the units from pipelines, wires and other auxiliary components. You will need a lot of space because you will need to remove four (sometimes three) exhaust manifold nuts, the downpipe, three oil feed and drain lines, and all the air supply lines. Water-cooled turbochargers are even more complex due to the additional parts.
One of the inevitable companions of a turbocharger's life is high operating temperatures. As a result, the nuts that attach to the exhaust manifold are "welded" almost permanently and it is necessary to apply a significant amount of a product such as WD 40 before starting to work with them. After replacing the main unit, it is imperative to replace the nuts with new ones made of stainless steel. If they are made of ordinary steel, then next time it will probably be almost impossible to unscrew them.
The studs may turn a few turns when the nuts are loosened, or even turn out completely. Check carefully for any distortion or damage to the threads. If this happens, restore the threads and tighten the studs back into place until they stop.
Not all turbocharger designs include a sealing gasket at the junction with the exhaust manifold. Therefore, do not be surprised if you do not find it when dismantling this unit on your car. If there was a gasket, be sure to install a new one during subsequent assembly.
After removing the turbocharger, check all exposed oil lines. To do this, ask someone to turn on the starter (removing the high-voltage wires from the engine to eliminate the possibility of starting it), and see for yourself that the oil flows freely. Once you have installed the new turbo, do this again to ensure that oil reaches the bearings before the "real" work begins. Turbo bearings without oil, even for a second, is the worst thing it can experience in its life!