ATTENTION: The most critical moments in the "life" of a newly repaired engine are the first few seconds of operation. Preparation determines the difference between a smooth step into subsequent "life" and a more abrupt transition. The following are necessary conditions for starting the engine: the engine must be filled with motor oil and coolant (CO) and the valve timing must be set.
Preparation
After installing the engine, add engine oil to the correct level. If you installed a new or different oil pan, follow the instructions for filling that pan.
If the camshaft was replaced, it is recommended that the engine run at increased idle speed for several minutes. The storage battery (AB) should be fully charged, and the injection ignition timing should be set as accurately as possible.
When the engine starts and runs for the first 20 minutes of "running in", about 500 liters of deadly carbon monoxide will come out. Therefore, it is necessary to provide good ventilation of the room where the car is located, i.e. open all windows and doors. Carbon monoxide is heavier than air, and it can accumulate in a closed space for several hours. The first minutes of engine operation are especially dangerous if you are working in a closed garage.
Launch
At this point, the rebuilt engine is ready to start. Attach a strobe light, tachometer, and oil pressure gauge to the engine. If the engine has hydraulic valve lifters, remove the valve covers before starting. Many reputable auto shops have spring clips that fit on the rocker arms to deflect oil while the engine is running and the valves are being adjusted. If you don't use these clips, oil will spray everywhere.
It is tempting to use a special starting fluid when starting the engine, but if you use too much of it, the engine can be damaged. It is even more potentially dangerous when the engine has just been repaired.
Bleed the fuel system. To do this, on engines with electronic fuel injection, turn the ignition on and off several times.
CAUTION: Pouring fuel into the intake manifold to start the engine is very dangerous.
Turn on the starter and listen for signs of life from the engine.
If the engine makes popping noises or backfires into the intake or exhaust manifolds, the ignition timing is incorrect. However, a few soft pops in the intake tract may simply indicate that a few drops of oil have entered the cylinders. Have an assistant move the distributor back and forth while cranking the engine. The engine should start. If the engine does not start or runs very poorly after starting, refer to the appropriate chapter.
For both the amateur and the professional, it can be confusing to reconnect all the pipes, wires and hoses that were disconnected when the engine was removed.
Numbering, marking and even photographing the engine compartment before removing the engine will help you navigate this confusion more easily later.
Running in
When the engine starts, immediately increase its speed to 1500-2000 rpm. Stabilize the engine speed. The camshaft and valve lifters are better adjusted to each other if the engine is not allowed to idle for the first 20 minutes of its "new life". The camshaft receives much less oil in the engine when idling; the speed should be slightly higher so that the camshaft and lifters are well lubricated. Also, do not change the engine speed abruptly during the first 20 minutes of its operation. If the engine speed is not maintained more or less constant, this will cause unwanted loads on new parts, on tighter tolerances, and on parts that have not yet been adjusted. During the 20-minute "run-in" period, it is necessary to constantly monitor the oil pressure and engine temperature. If any abnormal values occur, smoothly switch the engine to idle mode, turn off the engine and eliminate the cause of this phenomenon.
During the initial break-in period, adjust the ignition timing. Although you will need to adjust the ignition timing again at the desired engine speed after the engine is idled, set the approximate ignition timing now to reduce the possibility of engine overheating. Carefully check for coolant oil, power steering fluid, and transmission fluid (oil).
After the 20-minute "run-in," slowly return the engine to idle and let it idle long enough to check the ignition timing and set the idle speed. If the engine does not have hydraulic tappets, now adjust the valve clearances.
Test drive
Now you're ready for a test drive. Start with a short drive near the repair site. Since the car hasn't been driven for a long time, listen carefully for unusual noises and constantly monitor the coolant temperature and oil pressure. For safety, take a travel companion with you. If the values on the gauges go beyond the permissible limits, immediately turn off the engine and determine the source of the problem.
CAUTION: Do not test drive until all removed parts have been installed and all systems are operating properly.
After the test drive, it is necessary to evaluate the values of vital engine parameters.
Disconnect the strobe light and tachometer. If possible, position the oil pressure gauge so that it is visible while driving. If the gauge hose is too short, remove the gauge, check that the oil pressure warning light is working, and monitor it while driving.
Now you can take a longer test drive. During this drive, the probability of a fault in the ignition system circuit is directly proportional to the distance from your garage. Keep this in mind.
Once back in the garage, check the wiring harnesses, including the high-voltage wires. Check the oil level, make sure there are no oil leaks, and fix them if necessary. The same applies to the cooling system. If the engine has mechanical tappets, you will need to adjust the valve clearances again.
Once the test drive is complete and the hose clamps, drain plugs, and oil pan bolts have been tightened, the vehicle can be driven for several days (or weeks) until the next service. The driver should be aware of the recent repairs and, while driving, pay close attention to the instruments and warning lights, and listen for unusual sounds.
(The article is based on data from the website: «MITSUBISHIMAN»)
Service in the range from 1000 to 1500 km of run
The car should be serviced between 1000 and 1500 km. Allow the engine to cool completely, preferably overnight. Loosen and tighten the cylinder head bolts, adjust the valve clearances using the appropriate methods. Change the engine oil and oil filter. Check the tension of all belts and the tightness of the hoses. Check the oil level in the gearbox.
If all operations have been carried out and there are no traces of engine oil and coolant leaks left under the car, then the engine repair can be considered successfully completed.