2. Check the connecting rod journals for uneven wear, scratches, pitting and cracks.
3. Rub a copper coin along each neck. If the neck collects copper from the coin, it is very worn and needs to be ground.
4. Remove all burrs from the edges of the crankshaft oil holes using a whetstone, file or scraper.
5. Check the entire crankshaft for cracks or other damage. It is advisable to conduct magnetic-electrical flaw detection to detect hidden defects - auto repair shops have special equipment.
6. Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the main and connecting rod journals and compare to specification (see illustration). By measuring the diameter at several points around the circumference of each journal, you can determine the deviation from cylindricity. Measure on each side of the journal near the shoulders to determine the taper of the journal. You should also check the crankshaft runout, but this will require large V-blocks and a dial indicator. If you do not have the necessary equipment, take it to a car repair shop.
19.6 Measure the diameter of each crankshaft journal at several points to determine taper and runout
7. If the crankshaft journals are damaged, taper, run out or worn beyond specification, have the crankshaft ground at an auto repair shop. After rebuilding the crankshaft, use repair bearings of the correct size.
8. Check the sealing journals on each side of the crankshaft for wear or damage. If the seal has worn a groove in the journal, or if there are scratches or dents on the journal, the seal may not seal properly after the engine is assembled. In some cases, a car service shop can repair the journal by pressing a thin bushing onto it. If repair is not possible, a different crankshaft must be used.
[The material was created based on the website: MitsubishiMan.ru]
9. Check the main and connecting rod bearings according to section 20.