Table of causes of malfunctions in the car (Mitsubishi Pajero 4)

item number in the figure	Sign of malfunction	Possible cause	Method of elimination
Engine
1	A characteristic high-pitched metallic knock coming from under the engine valve cover	Violation of valve clearances	Adjust the valve clearance (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
		Broken (increased wear) supports (bearing supports) camshafts	Replace or repair the timing belt components (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
		Malfunction of hydraulic compensators	Replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
	Clunking/hissing noise coming from under front engine cover (front of the engine)	Timing chain tension is reduced (gas distribution mechanism)	Tighten the chain (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
		Wear of camshaft drive sprockets	Replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
		Increased wear of the timing chain	Replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
	A loud metallic knock coming from the middle of the engine	Knocking of pistons/piston pins due to increased wear	Replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
	A dull metallic knock coming from the bottom of the engine	Increased wear of the crankshaft	Replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
		Increased wear of the crankshaft main bearing shells	Replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
		Increased wear of the bearing liners of the crankshaft connecting rod journals	Replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
		Note: All the described faults manifest themselves mainly when the engine speed and/or load changes
	A dull, short knock from the bottom of the engine when starting it (two knocks)	Wear of thrust bearings (half rings) of the crankshaft	Replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
	Knocking (clicking) when moving the ignition key to the "START" position	Clicking sounds while the key is in the "START" position are caused by a faulty starter holding winding	In an emergency, you can use a screwdriver with an insulated handle to short-circuit the terminals of the starter holding winding. However, it is still necessary to study the problem in more detail (see chapter "Engine electrical equipment")
	A metallic rattling (clacking) noise coming from the fuel injectors (for diesel engines) Note: When this sound occurs, black smoke may appear from the exhaust pipe	Malfunction of the injectors and/or the entire fuel system of the engine. When scale forms on the injector nozzles, fuel may leak, which may result in loss of power and black smoke from the exhaust pipe.	Perform the required maintenance (see chapter "Power supply system")
	Squeaking, squealing, whistling noise from the front of the engine	Worn or loose accessory drive belt/belts	Tighten or replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
	Accessory drive belt squealing when turning steering wheel (in some cases, to the limit)	Worn or loose accessory drive belt/belts (for vehicles with hydraulic power steering)	Tighten or replace (see chapter "Mechanical part of the engine")
	Steam from under the hood	Engine overheating due to problems with the cooling system. Caution: Be extremely careful when opening the hood and unscrewing the radiator cap (see "Warnings and safety precautions when working on a vehicle").	- Stop and let the engine cool down. The reason may be the very high ambient air temperature • Check the cooling system fuses and the fan (see chapter "Actions in emergency situations")
	Loss of engine power due to engine overheating. Note: Coolant temperature gauge is in the red zone	Insufficient heat dissipation due to clogging of the radiator cells of the cooling system with foreign objects (road debris, leaves)	Clean the radiator using a special brush
		Cooling system fan failure or wiring problems	Check the technical condition and replace (see chapter "Cooling system")
		Mechanical damage to the radiator	Replace (see chapter "Cooling system")
		Coolant leaking through loose hose connections or damage to the radiator, cylinder block or cylinder head	Locate the leak and repair the problem (see chapter "Cooling system")
		Insufficient coolant level in the system	Add liquid to the required level
	Smoke from under the hood Note: After engine repair at a service station	After an engine repair, engine oil often gets on the block and cylinder head; if it is not removed by wiping it with a clean rag, then after turning on and as the engine warms up, smoke will start coming from under the hood - this is due to oil burning. As a rule, it does not pose a danger, but it is still better to turn off the engine and clean the block and cylinder head with a clean rag.	Make sure that after repair the head and cylinder block are cleared of engine oil leaks, if necessary clean using a rag and solvent
	Popping noises in the intake manifold	Shifting the ignition timing to an earlier position Caution: This malfunction may cause serious damage to the intake system and connecting rod and piston group.	Make repairs (see chapter "Engine electrical equipment")
2	Popping sounds in the exhaust pipe of the exhaust system	Shifting the ignition timing to a later position Attention. If repairs and troubleshooting are not carried out in a timely manner, the catalytic converter may fail.	Make repairs (see chapter "Engine electrical equipment")
Transmission
3	Difficulty engaging or shifting gears (for cars with manual transmission)	The clutch is "leaning", that is, the clutch does not disengage completely when the pedal is fully pressed. Note: When switching, a characteristic knock of synchronizers is heard	- Adjust the working stroke of the clutch pedal • Replace the clutch driven disc (see chapter "Clutch")
		Gear shift cable failure	Replace the gear shift cable (see chapter "Transmission")
		Loose or worn locking rings and synchronizer cones	Repair the fault or replace parts (see chapter "Transmission")
	Difficulty engaging or shifting gears (for cars with manual transmission)	Weakening the synchronizer springs	Replace the synchronizer springs (see chapter "Transmission")
		The wrong grade of oil was poured in	Fill with oil of the required grade (see chapter "Transmission")
4	A dull, clicking, short-term knocking noise coming from the gearbox when shifting (cars with manual transmission) Note: The knocking sound disappears when the clutch is pressed twice.	Increased wear of the gearbox synchronizer(s)	Replace (see chapter "Transmission")
5	A dull knock when shifting gears (manual and automatic transmissions) emanating from the central tunnel. Note: Usually it's two to three hits.	Increased wear of the cardan shaft crosspieces (typical for all-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive vehicles)	Replace (see chapter "Drive shafts and final drive")
5		Imbalance of the cardan shaft	Perform balancing (see chapter "Drive shafts and final drive")
6	Metallic "crunch" and knocking when turning the car Note: This causes the car to "break away" from the trajectory.	Malfunction of the final drive differential. Note: This is mainly caused by jamming of the satellites due to wear or improper adjustment.	Make repairs (see chapter "Drive shafts and final drive")
7	Characteristic metallic "crunch" and beating of balls when turning (all-wheel drive or front-wheel drive vehicles)	Dirt getting into the CV joint (constant velocity joint) because of a torn boot	Replace the boot and wash the CV joint (see chapter "Drive shafts and final drive")
		Increased wear of the CV joint	Replace the CV joint (see chapter "Drive shafts and final drive")
		Caution: Avoid starting and excessive loads when starting with the wheels fully turned (front wheel drive cars), because this can damage the CV joints.
8	Whistling sound when pressing the clutch pedal	Lack of lubrication or wear of the clutch release bearing	Replace the release bearing (see chapter "Clutch")
9	A dull, short knock when pressing the clutch pedal	Wear of the gearbox input shaft bearing (manual transmission)	Replace (see chapter "Transmission")
10	"Buzzing" sound from the final drive gearbox (mostly under load)	Maladjustment of the clearance in the main gear engagement	Disassemble, check the technical condition and adjust (see chapter "Transmission")
		Insufficient or no transmission oil in the final drive housing	Top up or pour in the required volume of transmission oil (see chapter "Drive shafts and final drive"). Note: If there was no transmission oil, it is necessary to identify the cause of the leak and check the technical condition of the main gear; if there is increased wear, replace it with a new one (see chapter "Drive shafts and final drive")
	Clutch slippage resulting in: • the car does not respond to an increase in engine speed. • inappropriate vehicle speed. • lack of power when driving uphill Note: This may cause a characteristic odor of friction material.	Inadequate pedal free play	Adjust (see chapter "Clutch")
		Clutch hydraulic system clogged	Eliminate the fault or replace the relevant parts with new ones (see chapter "Clutch")
		Excessive wear of the clutch disc surface	Replace (see chapter "Clutch")
		Glazing of the clutch disc surface or oil getting on the surface
		Damage to the clutch pressure plate or flywheel
		Worn or damaged pressure spring
11	Spontaneous gear shifting	Wear of gear shift forks or breakage of locking springs in the coupling	Replace the plug or retainer (see chapter "Transmission")
11	Spontaneous gear shifting	Increased clearance of the synchronizer clutch on the hub	Replace the hub and synchronizer sleeve (see chapter "Transmission")
12	Clutch grabbing/vibrating	Oil getting on the surface of the clutch disc or burning	Check the clutch disc (see chapter "Clutch")
		Clutch pressure plate failure	Replace the clutch basket (see chapter "Clutch")
		Damage to the diaphragm spring	Replace the clutch basket (see chapter "Clutch")
		Damage or wear of the clutch disc damper springs	Replace the clutch disc (see chapter "Clutch")
		Loose engine mount	Troubleshoot (see chapter "Clutch")
	Clutch noise	Damage to clutch pedal bushings	Replace the clutch pedal bushings with new ones (see chapter "Clutch")
		Loose parts in the clutch basket	Troubleshoot (see chapter "Clutch")
		Worn or contaminated release bearing	Replace the release bearing with a new one (see chapter "Clutch")
		Jamming of the release fork or rods	Troubleshoot (see chapter "Clutch")
Car chassis
13	A dull metallic knock at the top of the shock absorber strut (shock absorber) when hitting road bumps or obstacles	The shock absorber support is broken (upper shock absorber mount) Note: Not to be confused with suspension breakdown when hitting a road obstacle (see "Explanatory Dictionary").	Replace the shock absorber strut support and check the technical condition of the shock absorber strut (see chapter "Chassis")
14	Overheating of the wheel disk and wheel hub	Skewed installation or increased wear of the wheel hub bearing	Replace, make adjustments (see chapter "Suspension")
15	Knocking noise coming from the car's suspension	Increased wear of the ball joint of the steering rod end	Replace the tie rod end (see chapter "Steering") To determine wear it is necessary: • Hang up the wheel being checked and place a support under the lower suspension arm. • Grasp the wheel by the front and back parts and swing it horizontally. • If a knocking sound appears, the ball joint is excessively worn and needs to be replaced
	Knocking noise coming from the car's suspension	Increased wear of the ball joint of the lower suspension arm	Replace (see chapter "Suspension") To determine wear it is necessary: • Hang up the wheel being checked and place a support under the lower suspension arm. • Grasp the wheel at the top and bottom and swing it in a vertical plane. • If a knock occurs, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal and repeat the wheel movements. • If the knocking sound does not disappear after pressing the brake pedal, the ball joint is excessively worn and must be replaced.
		Wheel hub bearing wear	Replace (see chapter "Suspension") To determine wear it is necessary: • Hang up the wheel being checked and place a support under the lower suspension arm. • Grasp the wheel at the top and bottom and swing it in a vertical plane. • If a knock occurs, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal and repeat the wheel movements. • If the knocking noise disappears after pressing the brake pedal, then the wheel hub bearing needs to be replaced
		Wear of anti-roll bar struts	Replace (see chapter "Suspension")
		Wear of anti-roll bar bushings (often manifests itself when turning the car)	Replace (see chapter "Suspension")
16	Vibrations in the steering wheel with increasing speed Note: Vibrations may occur due to poor road conditions	Beating of the steering wheels as a result of imbalance (with a subsequent increase in speed, impacts are heard in the suspension, jerks of the car are possible) Warning: May cause very serious damage to the vehicle's chassis and steering	Balance the wheels and, if necessary, check the technical condition of the chassis as a whole. Check the steering wheel alignment angles
16		• The chassis and/or steering mounting elements have become loose Attention. Self-locking nuts/bolts or crown nuts with subsequent cotter pinning are used to secure the chassis and steering components. Be especially careful that the nuts are properly cotter pinned during installation. • Dirt or ice build-up on wheels and/or wheel arches. • Wheel mounting bolts/nuts have come loose.	Tighten all chassis components to the required tightening torque (see chapter "Suspension")
17	Noise when operating hydraulic power steering	Air entering the system	Make sure that air does not enter through loose connections. Perform the procedure of removing air from the system, to do this: • Position the vehicle in the direction of straight-ahead movement. • Open the hood and the cap of the power steering pump expansion tank. • Start the engine and remove air from the system by turning the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other. The air is removed if there are no air bubbles in the pump reservoir when turning the steering wheel
		Increased wear of the working surfaces of the power steering pump	Replace (see chapter "Steering")
		Low working fluid level	Make sure there are no fluid leaks, then top up to the required level (see chapter "Steering")
		Leakage of working fluid due to a violation of the tightness of connections and/or leakage through seals	Eliminate leaks (see chapter "Steering")
18	The car sways when driving on uneven road surfaces	Leaks of working fluid from the shock absorber(s), resulting in loss of damping capacity of the shock absorber	Replace (see chapter "Suspension")
	Vehicle deviation from straight-line motion	Violation of the steering wheel alignment angles	Adjust the installation angles (see chapter "Suspension") Note: This may cause uneven wear on the tires.
		Uneven wear of tires	See below "Types of tire tread wear"
		Steering wheel installation faults	Make adjustments (see chapter "Steering")
		Brake pads sticking on one side of the vehicle	You can check by hanging each wheel in turn and turning it by hand. The wheel should rotate freely without jamming. Note: In this case, smoke may appear from the brake mechanism (combustion of dust and friction material). See chapter "Brake system"
		Violation of geometric parameters of suspension elements (levers, steering knuckle, rods)	Conduct a check of geometric parameters on a special stand (you can put an ad here). If necessary, replace defective parts (see chapter "Suspension")
		Malfunctions of passive safety systems ABS, ESP (stability control system), ASR (traction control system)	Read fault codes using a special scanner (you can put an ad here). If necessary, carry out repairs (see chapter "Brake system")
	Car jerks when braking	Warping of the brake disc due to severe overheating	Check the technical condition and replace if necessary (see chapter "Brake system")
		Uneven wear of brake discs	Replace (see chapter "Brake system")
		Brake pad misalignment	Troubleshoot (see chapter Brake system)
		Malfunction of the ABS system	Read fault codes using a special scanner (you can put an ad here). If necessary, carry out repairs (see chapter "Brake system")
		- Dirt or ice build-up on wheels and/or wheel arches. • Wheel mounting bolts/nuts have come loose - Before driving, inspect and clean the wheels and wheel arches from frozen snow • Tighten the mounting bolts to the required tightening torque
19	Loss of braking efficiency (Increased force required when pressing the brake pedal)	Damage or malfunction of the brake booster	Replace (see chapter "Brake system")
		Excessive wear of the brake pad friction linings Note: Braking may also be accompanied by a metallic creaking sound.	Replace (see chapter "Brake system")
		Brake pad misalignment (installation error)	Replace (see chapter "Brake system")
		A leak in one of the brake hydraulic circuits Note: The brake pedal will fall to approximately half of its travel	Find the leak and repair it (see chapter "Brake system")
		Freezing of individual brake mechanism elements during winter operation	At low speed, press the brake pedal several times to warm up the brakes
20	The brake pedal has failed, the car barely slows down	Warning: This is a very dangerous situation as it may result in a traffic accident. The reason is air in the brake system. Note: In an emergency while driving, if this situation occurs, it is necessary to press the brake pedal several times in turn and, if necessary, carefully use the parking brake	Before each trip, it is necessary to check the technical condition of the brake system (see above) in order to find and fix the problem early. Bleed the brake system (see chapter "Brake system").
20	The brake pedal has failed, the car barely slows down	Brake fluid leak from the brake hydraulic system	Find and fix the leak (see chapter "Brake system")
Body
21	Extraneous noises from body elements	Loosening the fasteners	Retighten to the specified torque
21	Extraneous noises from body elements	Insufficient clearance between body elements	- If possible, separate the components by loosening and tightening their fasteners to the required tightening torque. • Insulate components using suitable materials such as polyurethane pads, foam pads, felt tape or polyurethane tape